Norman Hartnell was born in London. As a child he spent a great deal of time sketching the actresses of the day and their lavish clothing. This interest was revived while he was studying at Magdalen College, Cambridge when he designed posters, scenery, programs and costumes for the Marlowe Dramatic Society and the Footlights Dramatic Club. He continued to design for the theater (and later for film) throughout his career.
When he left Cambridge Hartnell worked as an assistant at a number of London fashion houses, including the extravagant society couturière Lucille before setting up his own business in 1923. He became known for his elaborate and intricately decorated gowns.
In 1938 Hartnell was officially appointed dressmaker to the British Royal Family and designed gowns for their overseas visits as well as for various royal occasions. He has been credited with creating a stylistic royal image that remains today.
Hartnell designed the dresses worn by Queen Elizabeth II on her her marriage to Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh in 1947, and her coronation in 1953. He also designed dresses for Elizabeth, The Queen Mother and Queen Mary.
The dress designed for the Queen's wedding contained 10,000 seed pearls and many thousands of white crystal beads. For it's display in 2003 for the anniversary of the coronation of Her Majesty The Queen, 10 restorers worked on it. In the embroidery, various symbols for different countries of the Commonwealth can be seen, such as the Scottish thistle, Australian wattle, the maple leaf of Canada and the pearly lotus flower for India.
Hartnell never married. During his lifetime rumors and speculation about his sexuality abounded and have continued since his death. He moved in theatrical circles and was friends with out gay men such as photographer Cecil Beaton and dress designer, socialite, and dandy Bunny Roger. However, his sexuality has never been publicly disclosed, and he does not mention the issue in his autobiography, Silver and Gold, published in 1955.
Hartnell's silence about his sexuality in his autobiography is unsurprising, for it was difficult, if not impossible, for men in the public eye to come out at that time. During this period homosexuality was not only morally and socially frowned upon, but it was also illegal in Britain and frequently prosecuted.
Not all of Hartnell's designs were lavish. He produced ready-to-wear collections that were sold through department stores from 1942. During World War II he created uniforms for the British Red Cross, the Women's Royal Army Corps, and the women's division of the British Police Force.
In 1977 Hartnell's work for the royal family was rewarded with a knighthood. He died two years later.
